Skip to main content

Build Update July/August 2018: Controls







Part 1: The Rudder Pedals


I laid out the cuts I'd need to make, the holes I'd need to drill, and gathered my hardware.




Then I pinned two blocks together using a 
drill bit, and updrilled them to 3/16" together
for perfect alignment, once drilled I put 
the bolt through and tightened it.















I drilled them to 1/8" and cut them on the bandsaw



 I cleaned up the edges on the sanding wheel, and we were off to the races!
I located the center holes, these were where the steel tube of the rudder pedals would come through.
I used a 1" spade bit to boar through the phenolic, and yes, this freed up about 3.5 square inches of COMPRESSED phenolic, and sent it all over the work bench.



Now that the holes were drilled, I used the Dremel, with a sanding tip, to ream them so that they fit with minimal friction. Taking a bit of extra time on this was well worth it since it made my rudder pedals silky smooth, like every other control will be in my plane.

 







Part 2: The Control Sticks

The most iconic control is, of course, the stick. In the standard Sonex, there is one control stick, in-between the two seats. There is a dual stick mod, that I opted for.






 There was the normal sanding to get the clearances just right. and then I needed to connect the control horn (the black triangle piece) with the stick grip (the long straight pipe)





I had to get this just right so that my controls were not lopsided.





I lined it up, clamped it down, and drilled it through.

I pushed the bolt through, tightened it all up, and it was good to go, now I had to put the stick assembly in the control triangle (big metal trapezoid)







And of course, I had my dog Zoe helping me build!



With both sticks in, I needed to attach the linking rod. I lined up both sticks perfectly vertical and perpendicular to the control triangle.



I aligned the linking rod and drilled.








Hard to hold back a grin when I finish any piece, but the control sticks were a different story, it was impossible not to smile and pretend I was flying.
Part 3: The Trim and Flaps





The flap drive is a big long steel tube that runs just in front of the spar tunnel and pokes out each side into where the wings will go. it too use phenolic blocks to ride in a extremely low friction bushing.

It's bolted up the flap handle, which sits in 1 of 3 positions in the flap detent bar, no flaps, half flaps, full flaps. (the handle, and detent bar will get powder coated black)






The flap detent bar, doubles as a mount for the trim lever, this will control the trim tab way back in the elevator via a this metal pushrod, basically like a model airplane. This is one of the few controls that I do want stiff so it doesn't flop.






Thanks to everyone who follows my progress, y'all are always encouraging, supportive, and helpful!



Popular posts from this blog

Build Update: The Turtledeck November 2017

First off, what is a turtledeck? The answer is obvious at first, it is a wood platform on the back of the house, with a bunch of turtles sitting on it, right?



Or maybe it is what you call the deck of a cruise ship that is for turtle pleasure?





Well actually it is the round part of the plane behind the cockpit, that leads into the tail, as seen in this beautiful Sonex.


So, now that we know what a turtledeck is, I can get into how I built one!. Like everything, It started with a plans review. The turtledeck skin was made of 2 smaller skins (a left and right) and a central spine of a stiffening C-Channel. The skin then is curved to make it rounded, pretty, and aerodynamic.


I then prepared all the parts. The turtledeck formers were up to the plate first, they look like this:




I made sure that they had no stress rising scratches. (rule of thumb is that if you can catch a fingernail in the scratch, then it is too deep and must be buffed out.) Aside from that I checked them against the plans …

Build Update April 5 2018: Dissasembling the Aerovee

The engine I bought was already built, and had not been run. My dad and I planned to take it all apart to give me a better understanding of the engine, as well as to identify any problems before they got bad.

The Arovee engine was heavy and awkward to move. at the time it was sitting on the workbench with everything installed.

Going into this I had only enough sense to tell you which cylinder is the #1, 2, 3, and 4, and I knew some of the terminology, such as crackshaft. I frequently asked my dad "what do you call that part?"  we began unbolting stuff in roughly reverse order from the manual (if you're familiar with sonex plans, you're used to backwards) In under an hour we had stripped many of the external parts off and the engine had lost at least 20 pounds! A box was designated as the hardware box, so it'll be like legos trying to find the right bolts and nuts again when I reassemble it. the important part is that they're all together and not lost. After…

Isaac's Flying Stories Ep 7: The 2018 Midwest Sonex Fly in!

This Year's Midwest Sonex Fly in was a smashing success, great weather, fantastic food, and 30+ Sonex Builders and Pilots showed up!

My dad and I flew in from our home airport in Mississippi. The flight to Fayetteville only took about 3 hours, with a fuel stop meaning we rolled in just in time for lunch. We signed in and got our raffle tickets for the door prizes. This year there were Sonex T-shirts, 2' sensenich propeller clocks, a 50% off a Sport EX EFIS from GRT avionics certificate, and a certificate for a free elliptical Prince Prop. After catching up with old friends over tacos and brownies, we began the raffle. It was tense as the higher and higher prizes were awarded. One woman won a T-shirt but no one wanted to ask her size for fear of offending her! After the drawing there was a line of storms moving in so we took one final group picture and those who were flying southeast (away from the storm) took off. My dad and I rolled the plane into a hanger and sat back in t…